Turnberry: Scotland’s Stunning Spa & Golf Destination

n a country with over 550 golf courses, so many of which are challenging, scenic, historic, or all of the above, a golfer is like a kid in a candy store; but for a complete destination resort, you can t go wrong with Westin Turnberry Resort in Ayrshire on Scotland s south west coast, about 55 miles from Glasgow Airport. Repeatedly chosen among the world s very top golf resorts by Conde Nast Traveler, Turnberry offers amazing golf, a first-class spa, fine dining, as well as a host of other activities.

Majestically situated high on a hill looking out over the Irish Sea, Turnberry Hotel was built 100 years ago by the 3rd Marquess of Ailsa, whose cliff-side domain, Culzean Castle, is just down the coast and open to visitors. With a gargantuan vase of flowers greeting you at the door, Turnberry retains the elegant proportions and gracious service of a bygone era. There are 132 rooms in the main hotel, including three splendid suites and nearly a hundred more rooms in the lodges that flank the hotel, among them, a number of two-bedroom cottages.

A great golf lover, the 3rd Marquess also laid out the original links at Turnberry, which went into service as an airstrip during World War II. Turnberry s magnificent Ailsa Course, which has hosted the British Open three times--in 1977, 1986 and 1994--was designed by Mackenzie Ross in 1951, to wend along one of the most incredible stretches of coast line anywhere, posing some awesome golfing challenges as it goes.

The first hole, a straightforward par 4, is named Ailsa Craig after the rocky island outcropping that is like a touchstone for the entire coast. Other holes have more intimidating names like Woe-be-tide and Goat Fell. Depending on which way the wind is blowing some holes seem downright impossible, then a subtle shift in direction will have you reaching par 5 s in two shots, like a pro. The ninth hole is called Bruce s Castle, and indeed there by the sea, you ll find the stony remains of Robert the Bruce s fortress. Stand there on the tee with sea breezes ruffling the tall grasses, the heather and gorse, and the up-close view of the lighthouse, pause for moment and breathe in Scotland.

Turnberry also has another 18, the Kintyre Course, the 9-hole Arran Course, and the Colin Montgomerie Links Golf Academy. If they can teach you how to hit a low shot out of the wind and a 40-yard chip-and run off a tight lie, your golf experience in Scotland will a lot happier. One of only two resorts in the UK that can guarantee hotel guests a tee time on an Open Championship course, Turnberry is also within easy distance of a passel of other courses, including Troon and Prestwick, also in the Open rotation.

Even if you re not a golfer, you must see the incredible vistas of the craggy coast, the lighthouse, and the ruins of Robert the Bruce s castle--and Turnberry offers a sporin-full of ways to get you out of doors, starting with Clydesdale Riding ( 30 for 1 hr 30 min) and Carriage Driving with Clydesdales ( 40 for 1hr) around the 800 acre Turnberry estate. There is also Off-Road Driving ( 50 for 1 hour) and Mountain Biking ( 5 for 2 hrs or 15 per day) on a route of your own choosing or on Turnberry s obstacle course.  Archery ( 28 for 1 hr) and Clay Target Shooting ( 40 for 25 clays). Even Falconry is offered, with a gorgeous array of birds of prey--eagles, owls, hawks, buzzards and falcons that live in a barn near the Lodges; the hour and a half Introductory Lesson is 60. There are also jogging trails, tennis courts and a pitch-and-putt right on the hotel s front lawn.

Trout Angling is possible, on Turnberry s own 2 acre spring-fed loch ( 45 for 2 hrs with a ghillie, or local guide) and in season, Salmon Fishing on the fantastically scenic rivers Doon, Girvan, or Stinchar ( 80- 140 per person per day).

After wrestling with the vagaries of whistling winds and capricious bounces out on the golf links or wading in the trout pond, a retreat to the spa is definitely in order. There s a soothing, welcoming atmosphere for both men and women, 11 treatment rooms, two hydrotherapy tubs, a well-equipped fitness studio, plus a manicure and pedicure room and a hair salon.

With its pink granite waterfall feeding the heated, 20 meter pool, Turnberry s pool area is a real aesthetic pleasure, even if you don t get wet; just sit in a chaise and order a smoothie, enjoy  the wall of windows looking out to sea and Ailsa Craig. On a fine sunny day, the view is splendid, but even when it s blustery, you feel safely cocooned. There is also a whirlpool, as well as open showers with wonderful, oversized showerheads, and a spacious sauna that is not dark, but has a wall of windows onto a secluded area of the lawn. The pool area is open to all hotel guests.

Separated from the pool area by frosted glass panels, with wooden blinds halfway down, and in subdued light, are the sauna, steam and shower, each very special in its own way. The steam is provided in a sea of color the walls, a lovely teal, the bench, a mica-like creation of blue/green with gold; overhead halogen lights glow from yellow to read. The sauna is powerfully hot--88 C; that s about 190 F. There s 20-minute egg timer on the wall, and you can see the wall clock through the smoked glass door; though I m a devotee of sauna, I barely stayed in this one ten minutes. It really softens the muscles up for your massage. After the sauna, I perked up with a quick rinse in shower, which has a huge overhead fixture and four side body jets.

The Spa at Turnberry features E SPA products and treatments, with a nod to the locale; the De-sensitising Facial (55 min, 60) is a gentle treatment for fragile skin prone to high color. The 1 hour and 15 minute Golfers Retreat ( 85) combines a 55-minute Muscle Relaxing Massage (individually 60) with your choice of either a Marine Hydro Bath ( 30) or an Oriental Head Massage ( 32). Also offered in conjunction with various facials, the Oriental Head Massage offers a quick way to reduce tension and yet feel energized, as it soothes with aromatherapy oils and stimulates vital energy points on the scalp but you have to be prepared for the application of special, nourishing Pink Hair and Scalp Mud.

The dim lights, soft music, and most of all the heated massage table provide a glorious contrast to the windswept headland of the morning s golf. The Muscle Relaxing Massage began (as most do) lying face down; as a thoughtful touch, my therapist Karen placed a display of polished pebbles and a gerbera daisy, along with an inhalation bowl on the floor below my face. She also placed rolled-up towels under my ankles to create a relaxed leg position. (When I turned over, she placed them under my knees.)  Using aromatic Fitness Oil smelling of clove, bay, and peppermint, Karen, who trained locally in Scotland, pressed, wriggled and coaxed the soreness from my muscles, noticing resistant spots without being asked and , even used forearms and elbows to iron out tension in my shoulders and tr
apezius muscles. With a morning tee time, this was just what the doctor ordered.

On the top level of the spa building is the Terrace Restaurant, where it s possible to dine indoors or outdoors on a seasonal menu that includes some lighter fare (pastas and salads) along with the country s justly renowned steaks, in a chic yet casual setting, enjoying a splendid view of Ailsa Craig and the sea. In the main hotel, the Turnberry Restaurant offers formal dining with dramatic ocean views. Fresh local specialties like oysters, salmon, and game are served with classic French style. All make Turnberry a world-class experience.

Practical information: If you exchange money or make a withdrawal from an ATM, you will receive Scottish pounds, which are equivalent to British pounds. Although the exchange rate is still less than friendly for Americans (about 1=$1.76 recently), prices are much less exorbitant than in London, even on luxury items like cashmere sweaters. Prices on Scotch whiskey are not all that much lower than in the U.S., but you ll find quite a few brands that are not widely available at home. Driving is on the left side of the road, and while not as hair-raising as in London, does require a certain amount of fortitude.

The Westin Turnberry Resort

Ayrshire, Scotland

Tel: (800) WESTIN-1 or +44(0) 1655 331000

www.westin.com/turnberry
www.starwood.com

www.visitbritain.com or 800-462-2748
www.visitscotland.com

British Airways:
www.britishairways.com or www.ba.com
800-AIRWAYS