Luxury and Grace: Denver’s Brown Palace Hotel and Spa
The decor of the whole spa, like the first seven floors of the nine-story hotel, is Italian Renaissance. In my opinion, there is nothing too feminine for a man s taste, and yet the environment is rich in beauty and elegance.
The city of Denver, Colorado, listed as one of the most health-conscious and slimmest towns in the United States, can now boast a spectacular new spa in one of its favorite old landmarks. Located near the capitol building downtown, the Brown Palace s Spa is housed in the red granite and sandstone hotel that has served up luxury since 1892, when the city itself was only a few decades-old.
The spa is certainly no modest hotel spa. In fact few hotels in Denver sport a full-service spa of any kind. But then this is no ordinary hotel!
We want to spoil our guests treat them like royalty, explained Public Relations Manager Shannon Dexheimer. The theme of the hotel and its spa and restaurants is tradition with a twist . We want to cater to special needs. If that means a cocktail with your pedicure, that s fine.
When I asked if the hotel had a mascot, Dexheimer answered no, but they d thought of it. Perhaps the hesitation stems from the fact that the hotel is dog-friendly canine family members are welcome. They even have a Bed and Bark-fast (groan!), which includes a comfy pet bed and breakfast in fancy ceramic bowls for your pampered pal.
The Spa
When the Brown Palace Hotel first opened it included a traditional Turkish Bathhouse, but it closed in the 1920 s. The hotel opened the doors of its new 2-million dollar spa in December, 2005. While in-room treatments are available, the spa is too enticing to miss! It is located on the first floor in the Atrium and includes Swiss showers and a natural rock waterfall.
I had the pleasure of experiencing the Signature Facial and Signature Massage.
Having very fussy skin, I always wonder how my face will respond to a new treatment. Gifted esthetician Shai Albright delivery made this one of the best treatments I ve ever experienced. She keeps her movements slow so they are relaxing and give your skin time to acclimate to each product. The products themselves gave excellent results, but were never harsh, and the slow gentle movements mean that the application itself becomes a massage.
A la carte treatments are available as add-ons, and Albright recommended a glycolic peel so light it almost felt like it wasn t there after a minute or two of slight tingling. While the peel did its work, I was treated to what was the best scalp massage of my life. My scalp is very sensitive to touch, but Albright knew that light and slow is the way to go for me. While the moisturizing mask soaked into my skin dry from the climate and the plane ride the day before Albright gave me a lovely hand and arm, then foot and calf massage. Her touch was expert, her fingers traveling exactly to the points of greatest tension.
When my facial was complete, my face felt refreshed and I honestly felt as if I had already received a full hour s table massage. But nothing could keep me from padding happily in my spa robe and slippers to the beautiful couple s massage room with its giant therapy bath, stone lampshade, and soft candlelight to receive my Signature Massage.
My massage therapist was no less talented. Shannon Briese had obviously given careful regard to what I d written on the intake form: She manipulated each part of my body to make the muscles I had said were tight pop out. Briese s technique was also slow and steady, and she did some very deep work with no pain. Her touch demonstrated intension, not effort, and my body responded. The oil used for the Signature Massage is the spa s own label, which is sold in the spa along with the soaps, shower gel, shampoo and conditioner present in every hotel room. The oil, a grape seed base, is excellent for moisturizing the skin in Denver s dry climate.
Another lovely touch when I was asked to turn over, Briese gently placed her hands near my chin, a light eucalyptus product on her hands: My nose immediately unblocked. Common massage table problem of face cradle congestion solved! The second half of my massage was as superb as the first. When I left the table I felt entirely relaxed, and all of my residual jetlag was gone.
Little and not-so-little details, like the softest massage sheets I ve ever touched, and a robe so comfy I ran to the shop to buy one, make the experience complete. Like the rest of the hotel and its staff, the shop is friendly and welcoming, practically perfect, but without being pretentious.
There are spa packages, and the spa along with the hotel and restaurants caters to the needs of groups. We have many bridal parties go to tea afterwards (in the Atrium), said Tammi Baxter, Spa Director. We have couples coming in (for treatments), then go to the Palace Arms. We have had people propose in the Palace Arms (after treatments.) Now that s a feel-good massage!
Massages last from the 25-minute Off the-Clock Swedish and deep tissue massage ($50), to 50-80-minute treatments including The Brown Palace Signature Massage which blends deep tissue with Swedish and reflexology ($80 minutes $140), the Four Hands Quartet with two therapists massaging to the rhythm of the Colorado Symphony (50 minutes $170, 80 minutes $260), the Athletic Touch deep tissue massage to remove toxins (50 minutes $90, 80 minutes $130), the Colorado River Stones which alternates warm with cool stones (50 minutes $90, 80 minutes $130), couples massages (50 minutes $170, 80 minutes $260), and basic Swedish (50 minutes $85, 80 minutes $130), and deep tissue treatments (50 minutes $95, 80 minutes $140). There is also a lovely-sounding Mother-to-Be massage designed to reduce the discomfort of pregnancy and increase circulation (50 minutes $90). The spa recently introduced a 20-minute Phytomer soak using freeze-dried seawater.
Facials include the Brown Palace s Signature Facial (80 minutes $130), an oxygen treatment intended to purify the skin, a facial massage, a hand massage, and a peppermint foot rub. The 50-minute Mountain High, Ocean Deep for sensitive skin ($90) is described as a combination of soothing marine and vegetable phyto-hormones to revive the skin’s natural beauty giving it balance and natural protection from the elements. The 50-minute Altitude Adjustment facial ($90) is described as a restructuring facial because in the rarefied air of Colorado, your skin needs a boost to renew and soothe. Additional anti-aging facials, scrubs and body wraps are also available for both men and women.
The spa s Auriege Massage Series includes three special 50-minute treatments ($95 each); the Vitazen which includes a blend of essential oils and plant extracts, the Derm Essential intended to relax your mind while it beautifies your skin, and the Vitaderme intended to firm and beautify your skin. There are also Auriege seasonal facials available.
Services also include waxing for men and women ($15-$65), and hair care services ($30-$110) including coloring, highlights and deep conditioning treatments. Manicures and pedicures range from $45-$85. There is an excellent assortment of treatments from which to choose, with separate spa menus for men and women. A rarity: The men s menu is as long as the women s.
The spa has lockers, changing rooms, a fabulous eucalyptus steam room, mirrored primping area with showers and hairdryers, and relaxation rooms (separate men s and women s) with tea, water, and snacks. There is a separate hair and nail salon, and six massage and skin treatment rooms. There is also a spa food menu with everything from light sandwiches and appetizers to coffee beverages and cocktails.
The d cor and services appeal to men, too, explained Baxter. They also love the big screen TV (in the men s relaxation room). The decor of the whole spa, like the first seven floors of the nine-story hotel, is Italian Renaissance. In my opinion, there is nothing too feminine for a man s taste, and yet the environment is rich in beauty and elegance.
Spa hours are Monday through Saturday, 9 am – 9 pm, and Sunday, 9 am – 6 pm. The spa s store carries a nice variety of skincare and cosmetic lines for sale including K rastase, Elizabeth W., MOR, archipelago, Phytomer, Jane Iredale, OPI and Zoya nail colors, and is the first in North America to offer Auri ge products.
The Hotel
The Brown Palace is Denver’s only Mobil Four-Star and AAA Four-Diamond hotel. The hotel boasts 230 rooms and 25 suites. The rooms are beautiful with large windows and comfortable beds. The guestroom bathrooms are about to receive an 8-million dollar make-over. Rooms can include a refrigerator, VCR, and all rooms include twice-daily housekeeping, Ethernet, and Wi-Fi. Other services include a business center with two computer stations and copy machine. The 24-hour fitness center includes treadmills, stair stepper and elliptical machines, weights and Pilates matt. It is located across the street via an indoor foot-bridge located on the 2nd floor.) Other services include concierge, laundry service, and room service. Guided tours of the hotel grounds are offered every Wednesday and Saturday.
The only more appropriate word than elegant to describe the Brown Palace is friendly. Despite the suspicions of a few locals who ve never visited the high-end hotel I never experienced so much as a hint of snobbishness. And why should there be any? Truly Denver has spawned a gem so perfect down to the last detail that it has no need of pretension. I met many of the spa, hotel and restaurant staff and musicians, and every person was as warm and friendly as the hotel is grand and welcoming.
The hotel s founder Henry C. Brown who grazed his cattle on the land prior to building, donated some of the land for the capitol building and for the downtown library. To this day the hotel still has a reputation for community support and charity, including its annual champagne cascade a tower of champagne flutes that broke the height record this year. (This year the proceeds went to the Make a Wish Foundation.) The Brown also plays host each year to the winning steer (usually a local 4-H project) by no kidding bringing it into its elegant Atrium for an afternoon.
The eight-story Atrium was designed by architect Frank E. Edbrooke. The huge 2800 square-foot Tiffany glass ceiling is still maintained by the family-owner company that installed it 115 years ago. The pillars flanking the spa once the fireplace and the wainscoting are constructed of gold onyx from Mexico, and are designed to reflect the pastel shades in the stained glass ceiling. The 800 wrought iron grills from the third through seventh floors include two installed upside-down; one so that divine perfection would not be threatened, and one by a disgruntled worker.
The hotel s list of clients past and present is impressive, including the Beatles and Presidents Truman, Taft, McKinley and Harding. President Teddy Roosevelt visited while bear hunting in Colorado. President Eisenhower used the hotel as a pre-campaign headquarters in 1952, and the dent from his golf ball in the mantle of the fireplace in the Eisenhower Suite has been preserved. Queen Marie of Romania visited in 1926, and Sun Yat Sen s visit coincided with China s revolution and declaration as a republic.
The Brown is only one block from the mile-long 16th Street Mall, a pedestrian mall with charming boutiques and cozy restaurants, and a free shuttle that stops every 90 seconds. Closest to the hotel are the local Barnes and Noble and just in case you left your workout equipment at home and want to take advantage of the fitness room a giant Nike store. Make sure you see Larimer Square, advised Dexheimer. Some of the best stores are there, at 15th and Larimer.
Lovers of history will find Denver s downtown a history buffet including the Colorado History Museum, the Denver Art Museum (which includes a Native American collection), and the Black American West Museum that documents the contributions of African-American cowboys and pioneers. (One-third of the cowboys in the USA were African Americans.) Fans of the Old West can also pay homage at Buffalo Bill s grave and visit his Memorial Museum. The Wings Over the Rockies Air and Space Museum is also downtown. Even the Starbucks a block away is one of the prettiest of its kind I ve ever seen.
During the Colorado Gold Rush (1890 s), the elegant copper-roofed Navarre Building across the street was an up-scale brothel, playing host to some of the Brown s lonelier clients. The rails used for the underground train that discreetly carried the ladies and gentlemen back and forth are still partially intact.
Cuisine
It is impossible for guests to be hungry for long. Four restaurants grace the Brown Palace: The Palace Arms, the Ship Tavern, Ellyngton s. In addition, the Churchill cigar bar sells rare cigars and single-malt scotches. All enter from around the Atrium Lounge or in the adjoining hallway. An English style Tea is also served in the Atrium.
Ellyngton s
Ellyngton s is the place for breakfast dining (meals from about $9.00 to $13.00). The menu includes lighter fare, to trout and eggs, and whole wheat crepes with luscious fruit filling. I loved the Portobello Eggs Florentine with a bed of spinach and just the right amount of hollandaise sauce. The restaurant is known for its Sunday champagne brunch and servers attired in tuxedos. Holiday brunch requires reservations, and the Easter list included a 150-person waiting list of hopefuls. Of course the Easter Bunny was there too.
The Palace Arms
The Palace Arms is a formal resteraunt with a store of 900 wines. The restaurant s menu has just been given a giant makeover by Chef Thanawat Bates and Maitre D Hotel Joe Garcia. It is the only restaurant in Colorado that served Red Abalone, and the menu now includes more traditional Colorado dishes, including a fast favorite with regulars, the Filet of King Canyon Bison Rossini ($55).
Bison is leaner than beef, explained Bates, So we have to add the sauces to keep it from being dry. Frankly I think I have never tasted such a juicy filet in my life: The meat melted in my mouth like butter! The creamy cauliflower and white fish soup is served cool and is a delight, as are the fresh salads (try the Muscat orange vinaigrette), and appetizers including the tempura Maine lobster tail; surprisingly light and fried in canola oil with no trans-fat at all. Served with mouthwatering sauces, it is definitely worth the indulgence. The marinated Ahi tuna is also a fantastic choice.
The dessert menu includes a chocolate raspberry truffle ($11) and the house favorite, Banana s Foster ($24). Menu entr es range from $28-$65. The bread tray includes a superb brioche.
The topper in luxury at the Palace Arms is a glass of Hardy s cognac circa 1870. ($575 per glass, and $11,000 per bottle.) The last glass served means the elegantly designed Lolite Crystal bottle goes to the drinker. These bottles go for $6,000 easy on EBay, said Garcia, an avid collector of antiques.
Garcia s wait staff cumulatively has over 80 years of experience and aims to please guests with special requests. Vegetarian? Vegan? Kosher? They are happy to oblige, but certainly appreciate a head s-up beforehand, so please call a few days in advance for kosher meals.
The Ship Tavern
During the 1930 s, when the Betcher family owned the Brown Palace, Mr. Betcher went to Nantucket and fell in love with a huge collection of nautical antiques and conversation pieces, and returned with them hoping to pass them off to his wife as an anniversary present. Restaurant Manager Tom Herber smiles, She wasn t buying that. She suggested he use it as d cor for a restaurant, and in 1934, right after prohibition was lifted, the Ship Tavern was opened to the public. A rarity in landlocked Colorado, Betcher had to employ a retired admiral and his sons to tie the rigging around the antique crow s nest the day before opening day: No one local knew how to do it.
While it offers a seafood menu, the Ship Tavern is also a steakhouse. Its local clientele are purists when it comes to their beloved haunt. Herber recalls the time he and the staff decided to change from the blue and white checked table clothes. There was quite a bit of protest, so other than taking down the heavy curtains that blocked the light and adding the plasma television screens, the d cor is pretty much exactly as it has always been. Even the bar stools match up to a photograph taken in the 1950 s. The staff isn t going anywhere either. Most have made the restaurant their career. One waiter has been here 47 years, said Herber. Another 30 years.
Don t be surprised if some of the talented locals who make the hotel guests feel very welcome suddenly break into song as house pianist John Kite accompanies. That man can play anything, declared Herber.
Entr es run from $18-$23 for lunch and $18-$35 for dinner. The menu includes many Colorado specials such as Rocky Mountain trout with pan-seared lemon butter, filet mignon and caribou chops. They have a huge selection of Colorado beers, and the bread tray includes the house Melba toast and rolls made with the house ale. Desserts run $4.75-$7. The bread pudding is very popular, as is the excellent menu of Ben and Jerry s best. The dessert menu also includes their signature black bottom pie and the hotel s famous macaroons. Some people order several dozen during the holidays, said Herber.
I indulged in the most succulent Alaskan halibut with pistachio herb crust in a chardonnay sauce. Served with perfectly cooked veggies, this is a real treat. The crust keeps it moist, explained 29-year employee Albert Sisneros.
Everyone who s read my previous hotel restaurant reviews knows that I am a cr me brul e freak, and the Ship Tavern s is superb! They stick to the traditional recipe, and serve it in the traditional fashion perfect for a fellow purist like me!
The Atrium
In addition to restaurant dining, the Atrium serves a fabulously popular afternoon tea daily (make reservations ahead of time!), and martinis nightly. The tea runs about $25.00 per person, and includes perfectly-brewed tea of your choice and a three tiered plate of scones with Devonshire cream, delicate and flavorful sandwiches, and sweets as beautiful as they are delectable.
Local families and business folk join the hotel guests for tea time. I witnessed several youngsters at their tea indoctrinations, dressed to the nines and loving it.
Room Service
The extensive room service menu runs the gamut from lighter fare including a continental breakfast for about $10.00, to sumptuous brunch-caliber meals. While breakfast items make up about half of the booklet thick menu, room service is 24-hour: The service is delightful at all hours. The title of fruit and cheese plate grossly underestimates the carefully arranged mountain of crisp fresh fruit and dizzying array of cheeses that showed up at my door the night I arrived. I lost count of the kinds of crackers. What a great way to chase away the jetlag, and welcome yourself to the lap of luxury!
For more information or to book rooms:
www.brownpalace.com
321 17th Street
Denver, Colorado 80202, USA
(800) 321-2599
fax (303) 312-5900
Traveler s Advice
According to every local to whom I spoke, Denver s tap water is not only drinkable, it s tasty! But the Brown Palace gets, and has always gotten, its water from its own Artesian well (also used for spa treatments). I found the water delicious to drink never gritty, and it never weighed down my hair. The hotel even bottles it.
Bring a lot of moisturizer for face and body, as the air can get very dry. Advice from a New York City transplant: Use some moisturizer inside your nostrils too.
If you re from a lower-altitude place, remember that Denver really is the Mile-High City, so be sure to drink plenty of water and get a good night s sleep for the first few days while you adjust to the altitude. If you still get a headache, you might try the popular Peruvian remedy spa-grade chocolate!
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