Devi's reputation as the best Indian restaurant in Manhattan is well justified; the charming restaurant on 18th Street off Fifth Avenue is delightful and its sophisticated take on Indian cuisine is not hidebound and richly deserves its Michelin star.

Devi is warm and welcoming, a colorful, narrow, tall space with a balcony offering more tables in the back. The scent is a hint of what the meal will be like, but only a hint. At first I thought the portions were small, but when we tasted them we could hardly finish. Fabulous flavor explosions fill you up quickly, and the chef brings together distinctive and unusual textures and tangs with such skill that our table conversation deteriorated to "Mmmmm."

Service was extremely good: well informed, friendly and free of pressure. Presentation was simply gorgeous, but the presentation only lasted a few seconds once we had tasted a few dishes. I am a vegetarian; my dining companion loves fish, and we were both ecstatic. The carrot ginger yoghurt soup had an aftertaste so wonderful I had resolved never to eat again when the puri, proud and puffed, arrived and my resolutions went the way of all things. The crispy okra is beyond belief, and the saffron bread pudding divine, rivaled only by the pistachio kulfi.

Co-owners/chefs Hemant Mathur and Suvir Saran have created an extensive list of luncheon specials (the three-course meal at $25 is a bargain) and appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts, and diners can create tasting menus from two courses ($35) to five ($55).

The wine list is very well thought out to coordinate with the Indian dishes and cocktails are delicious and festively served.

Visit www.devinyc.com.